alex megos 9c

Alex's previous hardest was his first ascent of Perfecto Mundo, a 9b+ project at Margalef bolted by Chris Sharma. So it's basically Alex and Ondra battling it out for strongest climber in the world. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn't looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. In den letzten Jahren investierte Alexander Megos rund zwei Monate in diese Route, die im französischen Sportkletter-Mekka Céüse . What Ho, Crackheads! Megos has also climbed V15 in 30 minutes, which generally means, with the right motivation and time, he could very likely climb V16. To me it looks better/more appealing than Silence. This can be a one-off single annual I started climbing at the age of 6 though my father, who introduced me to the sport. After taking approximately 60 climbing days Alex suggested a grade of 9c (5.15d). The only other 9c / 5.15d is “Silence”, which was completed by Adam Ondra in 2017 and has not yet seen any other ascents. Alexander Megos just sent a 5.15D/9C (Bibliographie)! Alex also has good form at Ceuse – in 2014, he needed only four attempts to climb Chris Sharma's Biographie (9a+). Alex Megos klettert Bibliographie 9c Dem deutschen Profi Alexander Megos gelingt die Erstbegehung der Route Bibliographie in Céüse. I was talking to Adam in Spain this year (between redpoint attempts on a 9b!) I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. Photo: Alex Megos on Bibliographie (9c) - Reaching high. If Eventually, Alex... Another relatively quiet week globally. So Adam Ondra, Alex Megos and 9c.... We thought it'd be a fun idea to try and break some numbers down and work out if the Wonderkid Alex is in fact ready for higher grades already. Points: 0 Climber News. This long term project is now the second 9c climb in the world! print publications. Considering the fact, that "Perfecto Mundo" (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, "Bibliographie" with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. Roll on 2021! The line, called 'Bibliographie', tackles the steep ground to the right of Biographie's blue streak and there is speculation that it is in the 9b+/9c grade range. Update: Megos has confirmed the grade at 9c. – An Easy Answer. interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. German climbing wunderkid Alex Megos may have just become the 2nd climber to ascend at the magic grade of 9C after completing his project ‘Bibliographie’ at Ceuse.. Listen via the player below. Has Alex Megos Just Climbed The World’s Second 9c / 5.15d? I passed my 'trouble move' seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves. This is Alex's first 9c and only the second of the grade in the world – the first being Adam Ondra's Silence in Flatanger, Norway. On August 5th Alex Megos climbed “Bibliographie” and given the climb a grade of 9c / 5.15d. “Bibliographie” is a multi year project for Alex at the world famous Céüse area in France. The line, just to the right of Chris Sharma’s Biographie, is described as starting at 8c to a good rest, followed by a Font 8B boulder problem and finishing with a 9a+ route.. How Many Dead Bodies Are On Mount Everest? With much of the UK locked down throughout 2020, it's a wonder that we have much to reflect upon at all in our annual roundup. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years "Bibliographie" has been by far my longest project to date. Climber. Megos has won many international competitions. Share. Photo record Route 9c Bibliographie Sport 35m Photographer Julien Clémence Submitter. He had spent 60 days working the project at Céüse, a considerable amount more than he needed for Perfecto Mundo (9b+) at Margalef. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous ‘one last go‘… …despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves… …After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. – Rock Climbing’s Most Commonly Mistaken Term, Is Rock Climbing A Sport? Alex Megos has climbed his long-term project at Ceuse after reportedly spending 60 days on the route. Alex Megos bezwingt zweite 9c-Kletterroute der Welt Der deutsche Ausnahmekletterer Alex Megos schreibt mit der Erstbesteigung der Route "Bibliographie" im französischen Céüse Geschichte. The film by its sponsor Patagonia tells the story behind the first ascent. I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. Watch Episode #20 – Alex Megos sends 5.15d…and YOUR questions answered! Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. On the 5 th of August, Alex Megos climbed his long-term Ceuse project, Bibliographie, with ‘one last go’ on the last day of his trip. I hope it really is 9c. Das Projektieren erstreckte sich über Jahre, am 5. In the video from 2019, some of the sequences are included. Alex said of the route and it’s grade – “With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years “Bibliographie” has been by far my longest project to date. Because he … Adam Ondra commented “congrats man and most of all – I am glad you suggest 9c!”. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. (And yes, there is send footage ) Pic @ken_etzel, A post shared by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on Aug 6, 2020 at 12:00pm PDT. Alex Megos has done the FA of Bibliographie 9c in Céüse after around 60 days of projecting. Extreme Gone Mainstream. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. As a result, an At the age of 12 I got more into training and started climbing more than only once a week with my coaches Patrick and Dicki. Alex Megos Description. By doing the first ever onsight of a 9a in 2013 I appeared on the radar of the climbing world, which enabled me to pursue my dreams and become a professional rock climber. Alex Megos. Alex suggests 9c as the level of difficulty for the route. If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Likelihood it’s really 9c? Er nannte sie „Bibliographie“ und schlägt dafür den Grad 9c vor. Absolutely the number one starting point for any profile. Invested 60 climbing days spread over several years Alexander Megos. Gedenk dessen, dass er in seiner bisherigen Toproute „Perfecto Mundo“ 16 Tage zu brachte und jetzt immerhin 60 Tage, über einige Jahre verteilt benötigte, ist es wohl gerechtfertigt. How hard can the forearm muscle contract and how does that relate to body weight. Watch the new video of the send below. A completely new experience for Alex. See all. The 35 m long route bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and Alex Megos has tried it 60 days in many years. 170 comments. Here's an article by Tom Randall of Lattice Training where he compares the strengths and weaknesses of Adam Ondra and Alex Megos based on the numbers. This ties him with Adam Ondra for hardest grade ever climbed. Initially the news was rumored and the grade unconfirmed apart from other’s comments. Can't wait to see the footage. In 2017, Megos won silver in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. Scattered over the past three years, Alex invested about 60 days into working on Bibliographie. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming a UKC Supporter, or UKC Supporter Plus which Footage starts at 0:35 and there’s a little more at 48:20.eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'climbernews_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_14',127,'0','0']));Watch this video on YouTube. It just happens that there aren't tons of V16's for him to choose from. The line, called 'Bibliographie', tackles the steep ground to the right of Biographie's blue streak and there is speculation that it is in the 9b+/9c grade range. Ethan Pringle bolted the route in 2009 and it looks like sustained hard overhung crimps and big moves are to be expected. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you! Alex then announced the send in an instagram post and suggested the 9c grade, saying: – eval(ez_write_tag([[728,90],'climbernews_com-box-3','ezslot_12',111,'0','0'])); “Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. The doc and footage is a mix of new and older video from the Rotpunkt documentary that was based around the original attempts.Watch this video on YouTube, There is also a short amount of older footage of him trying it when it was a project a few years back. The route was first climbed by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 and was... We're starting a weekly summary of noteworthy ascents from around the globe. Adam Ondra is also attempting “Perfecto Mundo” 9b+ withouth success quite yet. Alex Megos klettert zweite 9c der Welt in Ceuse, Frankreich. Es wäre nach „Silence“ von Adam Ondra die zweite Route in diesem Grad. Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. includes discounted products from Rockfax. Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber. November 17, 2020November 17, 2020 | News, Sport Climbing, Home » News » Alex Megos Climbs World’s Second 9c / 5.15d “Bibliographie” – Video. 76 posts 5 videos. 7th August 2020. 326.7k Followers, 96 Following, 862 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. A 5.15d (9c), according to Alex Megos. We saw Alex achieving an almost superhuman 132% of body weight carried on our test edge and our best information on Adam is that he’s pulling 112% of body weight (although this was from a previous study a number of years back – Balas et al). For Alex Megos to be projecting a route for multiple years definitely suggests a grade of 9c or possibly a split grade of 9b+/9c. At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. The 35 m route was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and the 26-year-old has tried it actively for three year. He was the first climber to on-sight (climb without prior practice or advice) a route graded 9a (5.14d). report. Alex was born in Erlangen, Germany, in 1993. On August 5th, after years of projecting, Alex Megos put down the first ascent of Bibliographie, which he has graded 9c (5.15d).The route runs beside Biographie—the world’s first consensus 9a+ (5.15a), established by Chris Sharma 2001—in Céüse, France, and is 35 meters (115 feet).It was originally bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009. save. He was the third person to climb the grade, after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Nella falesia di Céüse in Francia il climber tedesco Alex Megos ha liberato Bibliographie, per la quale ha suggerito il grado di 9c. let firstScriptTag = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; It is the second route of the grade ever, after Adam Ondra’s Silence. But it wasn’t the end goal that truly mattered. Ethan Pringle bolted the 35m route in 2011 and footage of Alex attempting the project can be seen at the being of Rotpunkt below: if (!$('script[src="https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"]').length) { On August 5, 2020, Alex Megos proved it possible! He suggested for the grade 9c. All rights reserved. The project is known as Bibliography and starts up an 8c to a good rest, followed by a Font 8B boulder problem and finishing with a 9a+ route. In August of this year Alex Megos first ascented the route in Ceuse. When Alex Megos clipped the chains of Bibliographie on August 5th, he finished an uncharacteristically-long journey, which he wasn’t sure he’d ever complete. For Alex Megos to be projecting a route for multiple years definitely suggests a grade of 9c or possibly a split grade of 9b+/9c.The only other 9c / 5.15d is “Silence”, which was completed by Adam Ondra in 2017 and has not yet seen any other ascents.He has confirmed there is full footage of the climb! In recent years Alex has been climbing many 9b’s and also qualified for the first Olympics Climbing event in Tokyo 2021. Interview: Alex Megos on Reconnecting with Rock Interview | Patagonia Photography | Ken Etzel & Sam Bie Like the rest of the world, Alex Megos hasn’t been getting out so much this year, his usual busy travel schedule dictated by international climbing competitions and responsibilities of a professional athlete grinding to a halt as the world grapples with COVID-19. We recently reported that Alex Megos had climbed his long-term project at Céüse after spending 60 days on the route. Date taken Thu 23rd Jul 2020 Date uploaded Mon 17th Aug 2020 5 months ago He began climbing at the age of 6 in the Frankenjura, where he sent his first 8a in 2007, with only 14 years. In the last three years , Alexander Megos invested around 60 days of projecting the route Bibliographypie in the French sport climbing mecca Céüse . It’s the only 9b+ Ondra hasn’t sent!eval(ez_write_tag([[336,280],'climbernews_com-banner-1','ezslot_13',115,'0','0'])); After the full lockdown ended and the Olympic Games were pushed back to 2021, may other world class climbers have been out getting big ticks. He celebrated the achievement with a round of pizzas for the campsite from the local Pizza van – as you do. How Should Climbing Shoes Fit? Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. Update: Megos has confirmed the grade at 9c. Read More Great Articles– Most Famous Rock Climbers– Best Climbing Shoes 2020– Complete Guide To Climbing Skin Care, Alex Megos Climbs World’s Second 9c / 5.15d “Bibliographie” – Video, first Olympics Climbing event in Tokyo 2021, Laura Rogora became the second Woman to climb 9b / 5.15b, V15 / 8C boulder problem at just 15 years old, Daniel Woods Climbs 9A / V17 “Return Of The Sleepwalker”, Will Bosi First Brit To Climb 9b+ / 5.15c “King Capella” – Video, World First Summit Of K2 In Winter + Tragedy As Five Die, Bouldering Pad Buyer’s Guide 2021 – How to Choose a Bouldering Pad, What Rock Climbing Shoes do Professional Climbers Wear? prev next. Megos sent the route yesterday and rumors say it could be 9b+ or even 9c ⚡ thanks to @dirk.uhlig Alex Megos ha conseguido la primera ascensión de 'Bibliographie', en Céüse (Francia). There is plenty of news out there already (as well as some great stories on Alex’s own Instagram feed). Tour photos uploaded by Alex Megos. Along with Stefano Ghisolfi they spent a few weeks working on it, Alex sending first after 16 days and Stefano a few months later. von Redaktion. in the first ascent of Bibliography (9c). 2020 will be a year that most will hastily forget, with COVID-19 overshadowing the majority of the year. Eric talks about Alex Megos sending Bibliography (5.15d/9c), and he speculates about the world’s first 5.16a/9c+. Be interesting to see how Ondra fairs on this when he goes and tries it. Then, he answers more than a dozen viewer questions! It is only the second 9c in the world. He has confirmed there is full footage of the climb! Si tratta della via d’arrampicata sportiva più difficile della Francia e soltanto la seconda al mondo di queste difficoltà. Quelle: Alex Megos/Instagram Pic: Ken Etzel Hier der Originalpost von Alex auf Instagram: Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn’t mean you don’t have a chance. - Climber News, The World's Most Famous Rock Climbers - Best Climbers + Big Risk Takers, Best Climbing Documentaries On Netflix & Amazon Prime, Stefano Ghisolfi Makes Second Ascent Of Change 9b+ - Climber News, Hardest Climbs In The World: Highest Climbing Grades + Routes, What Is French Free Climbing? Laura Rogora became the second Woman to climb 9b / 5.15b in July just after becoming the first Italian Woman to climb 9a+. Anyone know the history of the line? Oriane Bertone climbed a V15 / 8C boulder problem at just 15 years old. tag.src = "https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"; Alex Megos is one of only handful of climbers to have climbed 9b+ when he made the first ascent of “Perfecto Mundo” – originally a Chris Sharma project. Might be “new” to Ondra to repeat a cutting edge route, as since 5+ years he has always provided them, take away perfecto mundo. The “Bibliographie” video has now been released and is in full below. The line tackles the steep ground to the right of Biographie's famous blue streak and was confirmed at 9c by Alex … Megos reported on Instagram that he has been … The video from the second 9c-Route of the world “Bibliographie” is online. The route is the world's second 9c. Alex Megos. It features footage of the final send though not completely uncut. Obviously he has done that in the past but it’s been a while... Wow! and he still considers himself to have weak finger… In 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup. Which is how it should be. The name is nod to “Biographie” just a few metres to the left, which was the first 9a+ / 5.15a in the world and first climbed by Chris Sharma. Back in August 2020, news spread around the world that Alex Megos had climbed his hardest route yet. It's been an unusual summer for... As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and Of course, as the first ascensionist you don't have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. © UKClimbing Limited. Maybe we’ll see the first 9c repeat soon? The line, located just right of Biographie in Céüse, France, was bolted by Ethan Pringle in 2009 and follows 35-meters of overhung limestone.Megos began projecting it in 2017. Read more about the process and his send in his Instagram post below. True. Better go via Amazon Music , Apple – A Forgotten Style, What Is Free Climbing? Through the experience, he says, he learned to love the process instead of chasing the send like a carrot on a stick. you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. Megos has proposed 9c [5.15d], making it the world’s second route of the grade after Adam Ondra’s Silence. Watch Alex Megos trying a month ago 'Bibliographie'. Alex Megos announced on Instagram that he has redpointed his multi-year project, Bibliographie in Céüse, France. Considering the fact, that “Perfecto Mundo” (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, “Bibliographie” with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder.“eval(ez_write_tag([[250,250],'climbernews_com-box-4','ezslot_9',128,'0','0'])); The route now contends with Adam Ondra’s 9c “Silence” for the hardest climb in the world. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult. (Whenever that will be), looks like an amazing route. Here's a few... Alex Megos has flashed Underground (9a) in Arco, Italy.

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